Car Audio 101 – The Big 3 Upgrade Tutorial
DIY with Mike Stiers www.maxxsonics.com So you’ve decided to upgrade your car stereo system? A great deal of research and planning should go into this purchase since there is a lot to consider. Do you desire a nice upgrade of your factory speakers, are you looking for a Sound Quality overall of speakers, subwoofers and amplifiers, or are you designing a vision-blurring SPL machine? It is important to make a list of exactly what you are looking to replace or add to your audio system so that you can prepare your electrical system for the investment to come. Many people do not realize that their vehicles factory electrical system was not designed for aftermarket audio equipment. In fact, most factory electrical systems can only handle an audio system of 600 to 1200 watts. The lower end of the scale being the smaller vehicles and most foreign rides, and the upper end being large trucks and sport utility vehicles. As you increase demand, you need to look at upgrading your battery, alternator and most importantly your Big 3. THE BIG 3 The Big 3 consists of upgrading three wires under the hood of your vehicle. You can completely replace the three wires detailed below, or simply add additional wires to existing factory wires, the choice is yours. The existing factory wires are generally 8 gauge or smaller and are not designed for the high current demands of an aftermarket audio system. It is recommended that you use a nice insulated 0 gauge wire so that you only have to do this …
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i want sound quality and heavy bass with all around very loud volume, any suggestions for items i should buy? i would really really appreciate it!
Is it necessary to put a fuse from alternator to battery?
Do u leave the factory power and ground when doing the big 3 ?????
In this example, the alternator chassis is bolted DIRECTLY to the engine and there is no need for a wire from alternator chassis to ground. In some vehicles the alternator is mounted separately and a separate ground wire from alternator chassis to battery ground would be ideal for continuity of the circuit.
Yes, to qualify as 0 awg, the cable must be 53.5mm2 or larger. ( AWG= American Wire Guage )
@BigLongJon21 The size of your wire from the front battery to the amp(s) is dependent upon your total watts. I like running 0 awg to a distribution block in the back so that you can add your amplifier(s) to that block and expand from there. What is the total watts rms of your system?
With 1200wrms, you have likely exceeded the capability of your battery/alternator combo. The BIG 3 helps with delivery on the charging side, but you may need to look at upgrading your battery to a nice deep cycle capable of the power you are working with. Pass on the capacitor as it is a bandaid which can cause more harm to the amplifier and not a solution.
How much power do you plan to run? It certainly doesn’t hurt to use 0 awg, but something like 4awg would be ideal around 1000 watts rms. Just an example.
Add a ground from battery negative to chassis.
Those are 0 awg ring terminals from Hooker Audio.
If you look at 4:09 you will see that there is a bolt on the factory harness…we simply removed the factory wire that went from that bolt to the battery terminal and replaced it with a longer wire that went to the new battery terminal. Those are Hook Audio battery terminals.
Did you lave the stock wires connected? If not, reconnect the stock wires as well. Most vehicles run the primary charge line from the alternator through a fuse box, then into the battery.
What’s the rms power handling of each subwoofer?
HELPPPPPP .I just did the big 3 with my car but didnt do the ground to the engine block, i replaced the alternator to battery, and battery to frame. my car wont start.. what’s wrong?
How did you guys extend the factory positive & what kind of terminals were those ?
Hey I and the same scion xb as shown in the video and I was wondering if you could tell me what size terminals were use on the O gauge wire that you connected to the alternator, strut, and block.. thanks.. great video btw
I have a ford focus would it be a good idea to add a zero gage to my car?
I have a question. I have an amp running 1200w with a stock battery and alternator. My car is acting weird I’m guessing it’s the battery. Should I upgrade to the big 3, a cap for my battery, or just a better battery.
The blue cable is a 50mm2 cable ? Or more ?
okay so i get it, but the engine block to car chassis isnt the alternator ground, you dont have to upgrade the actual alternator ground wire ?
Check the forums to see if anyone has successfully completed the BIG 3 on your vehicle and follow their advice. If you don’t have luck going that route, contact a reputable mechanic.
My best suggestion is to ask a mechanic.
It is suggested, but not required. The question to ask yourself is whether you are going to be running anything over 1000wrms or not? If so, upgrade the battery. If not, why are you upgrading the wiring?
Quick question.
Do you have to replace the battery with a aftermarket battery?
im confused on where the alternator’s ground is, i know its grounded to the engine, but wheres the pre-existent engine to chassis in my 2001 pontiac sunfire.. i can not find it, battery to ground is obvious, alternator to battery positive is obvious, engine to chassis is not obvious, please message me !